Post by killbucket on Dec 5, 2010 13:21:08 GMT -5
Did I tell you this was possibly the best 3-channel you can buy? If you don't have one yet, go get one on the way. I'll wait.
Now, you won't find anything not to like in this box, except one thing: go hold your new Chinook (Always capitalize that- it's a proper noun, and a name of people who deserve full credit as Americans) next to the wiring holding your Christmas lights together.
All of a sudden, we need less "toy" flavor, huh?
Go grab some Testor's silver paint (or whatever you have around that won't eat plastic), cover the kitchen table, and let's go.
This isn't a tutorial on dry-brushing.
Image-google "warcraft dry-brush techniques", and stand back.
Pick a tutorial, skim it, and...COME BACK.
OK, you're an expert now (You learned that a nearly dry brush gives the technique its name, and to practice on something nobody cares about).
Now just review these detail shots, and see where I've applied my "wear".
Chinook's are nearly 100% aluminum-skinned, and even with GREAT primer, any paint applied is only a bet, rather than an assurance. so a lot of the aluminum ends up exposed again.
Starting at the nose, most of the edges get two layers, or passes, with the brush. Rather than remove the windscreens inside, let them get a few swipes as well, so they appear scratched up.
Door and window edges got extra attention.
The landing gear pods also get a lot of wind-sweeping, so I wore some "paint off" there too.
the bump under the chin isn't there on a real Chinook Helicopter, but I weathered it in, so it didn't look out of place.
Screw-holes mar an otherwise hard-to-size view.
The RC-only motor vents also get some dry-brush, so they also fall into the overall picture without drawing too much attention.
The center section gets an overall going-over with the scantily-paintclad-brush. Surface details pop out nicely, and again, RC-only details blend in.
Tail section, motor pods get some wear and tear, as well. I like how the dry-brush really brings out the shapes of the aircraft.
On the real ciopters, this whole rear motor pod is designed to break away from the craft (and crew) in an "event", hence all the panel lines separating it.
I was here in the 60's, and people were looking for this then. Who knew it would come in a box for about $40? I do wonder if a bit of acetone (nail polish remover) would have taken this silly saying off prior to paint finishing.
You can get an even better effect if you do this technique in two sessions. For the first, slightly darken the paint with some black or brown. the scond, lighter application will result in "wear on the wear", and look a bit more credible.
Questions?
Now, you won't find anything not to like in this box, except one thing: go hold your new Chinook (Always capitalize that- it's a proper noun, and a name of people who deserve full credit as Americans) next to the wiring holding your Christmas lights together.
All of a sudden, we need less "toy" flavor, huh?
Go grab some Testor's silver paint (or whatever you have around that won't eat plastic), cover the kitchen table, and let's go.
This isn't a tutorial on dry-brushing.
Image-google "warcraft dry-brush techniques", and stand back.
Pick a tutorial, skim it, and...COME BACK.
OK, you're an expert now (You learned that a nearly dry brush gives the technique its name, and to practice on something nobody cares about).
Now just review these detail shots, and see where I've applied my "wear".
Chinook's are nearly 100% aluminum-skinned, and even with GREAT primer, any paint applied is only a bet, rather than an assurance. so a lot of the aluminum ends up exposed again.
Starting at the nose, most of the edges get two layers, or passes, with the brush. Rather than remove the windscreens inside, let them get a few swipes as well, so they appear scratched up.
Door and window edges got extra attention.
The landing gear pods also get a lot of wind-sweeping, so I wore some "paint off" there too.
the bump under the chin isn't there on a real Chinook Helicopter, but I weathered it in, so it didn't look out of place.
Screw-holes mar an otherwise hard-to-size view.
The RC-only motor vents also get some dry-brush, so they also fall into the overall picture without drawing too much attention.
The center section gets an overall going-over with the scantily-paintclad-brush. Surface details pop out nicely, and again, RC-only details blend in.
Tail section, motor pods get some wear and tear, as well. I like how the dry-brush really brings out the shapes of the aircraft.
On the real ciopters, this whole rear motor pod is designed to break away from the craft (and crew) in an "event", hence all the panel lines separating it.
I was here in the 60's, and people were looking for this then. Who knew it would come in a box for about $40? I do wonder if a bit of acetone (nail polish remover) would have taken this silly saying off prior to paint finishing.
You can get an even better effect if you do this technique in two sessions. For the first, slightly darken the paint with some black or brown. the scond, lighter application will result in "wear on the wear", and look a bit more credible.
Questions?